Gift for a Fairy Yarnmother

Over a year ago, a reader contacted me with a question -- she was downsizing her yarn collection, and would I like some of her stash? Shortly after, a box arrived on my doorstep. And then another, and then a third! Each one filled with beautiful yarns in some of my favorite fibers and a rainbow of colors. So many sock yarns! There were even a few cuts of fabric and a puzzle (how did she know?). I dubbed her my "Fairy Yarn-mother," and the name stuck (I don't know how she would feel about that, but hopefully she'd consider it a compliment!). You've already seen some of the results of her kindness, like Rosa's Izzy, my Elven Woods socks, and my Pinky socks. And there are more projects soon to be posted!

More crochet forays -- this time a bookmark, which was a challenging but enjoyable project.

In spite of my gratitude, 2021 was a difficult year in many ways, and it was over 12 months before I finally sent a little "thank you" package in her direction. It was also ridiculously hard for me to settle on what to send. Choosing gifts is not one of my strengths, and it's even harder when I have limited information about the recipient. But clearly sewing and knitting were something we had in common, and we also share a favorite Jane Austen novel! In the end, I went with those themes and hoped for the best.

A few lavender sachets in these Ruby Star Society "Purl" prints were a must:

And I made a small box adorned with a facsimile of Jane Austen's manuscript for "Persuasion" -- I used to make these regularly for my Etsy shop once upon a time (though with fragments of thrifted novels), but haven't done one in ages. I forgot how much I enjoyed it! 

A few goodies completed the package, and off it went. I must say, it's making me itch to make Jane Austen wares again...
 

Little Ray of Sunshine (or Izzy, Again)

 If my calculations are correct, I haven't made an "Izzy" dress for Rosa in over four years (I loved that little dress!). As long-time readers may remember, over the years I made nine of these dresses from size 18 months to size 5 -- just search "Izzy" in the sidebar for proof! I can't think why it's been so long since I've made one, and also can't believe this is my 10th Izzy. But I'm ever so glad I saved both the toddler and girl sized files for this pattern -- when I made my very first Izzy I mentioned that digital patterns sometimes disappear, and sure enough the files are no longer available now that the designer, Teri, has taken down her blog (Climbing the Willow).

Through the generosity of a reader and fellow knitter (whom I've dubbed my "fairy yarn-mother," but that's a story for another day), I came into possession of yards and yards of sunny yellow gingham. Not the unpleasant poly-blend that used to be all you could find at fabric stores, but a sturdy cotton with a small check. Just right for my sunny eight-year-old. As I look back through my blog posts, I realize this isn't the first time I've made an Izzy in gingham. 

For Easter Sunday, Rosa wore her new Izzy and I wore my coral gingham Penny dress by Sew Over It. It was lovely that we could "match," while the different colors and check sizes (not to mention different styles of dress) were still unique.

I sewed up a size 8 bodice with a size 10 skirt (lengthened a bit, to accommodate growth). Thank goodness I remember how to construct it, since the accompanying tutorial vanished with Teri's blog! 

For the closure, I opted for a KAM snap. I love the simplicity of this pattern (though there are many ways to modify and embellish it). At first I worried it would be too plain, but in the end I'm glad I didn't add anything. 

I made a tiny version while I was at it, for another sunny girl -- and I still have yards of gingham left! 

For the Birds

I have been diligently working away at my fabric stash, as you may have noticed from recent posts! Quilts, aprons, maternity tops and skirts, pinafores -- even fabrics that I'm no longer enthusiastic about have been turned into pajama tops and bottoms for littles and mama alike, or used for mock-ups. I feel like I am always talking about cutting down on my stash, though -- and perhaps you would agree! It's not that I mind having a bit of a stash; on the contrary, having a stock of fabrics available is quite a boon as a seamstress. But I do feel that there is too much of a good thing, and it does seem that fabrics consigned to the stash have a tendency to stick around. Some of the yardage I have is at least a decade old, by my calculations! When I started sewing as a teen, limited funding led to a bit of a hoarding tendency with fabric. Circumstances and mindset have changed since then, and now I'd prefer to have minimal stock on hand (I'll always have my linen scraps, though!), and choose both projects and fabrics very purposefully.

So, with these ideas floating around in my mind, and with renewed purpose and determination to reduce my fabric "holdings," does it make any sense whatsoever to buy more fabric? Certainly not! Apparently, however, reason is not always the determining factor in my decision-making, because a yard of Doodles Birds Interlock came home with me on a recent trip to JoAnn's -- along with the fabric for the Climbing Roses dress! "But it was such a very Boden-ish fabric," I plead. If there is a technique to leaving Boden-ish fabric at the fabric store, I have not mastered it yet.

If the fabric had a Boden flair to it, I thought the garment ought to, as well. After browsing for ideas, I realized that I already had the perfect pattern: Teri's Izzy top from Climbing the Willow. Yes, I'm that predictable! Really, though, are you surprised? By my count, I've made nine versions of the Izzy in the past three years (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9). I suppose you could say the Izzy has been a defining feature of Rosa's childhood!

Just as predictably, I made a few slight alterations to the pattern to suit the design (this also prevents the resulting "Izzies" from looking too similar, I hope). I drafted a Peter Pan collar from the same knit fabric I used to line the bodice (a grey gingham jersey from Girl Charlee, left over from Izzy #8), lining one set of collar pieces with a knit interfacing and adding a stretchy cotton lace trim for the edge. The stretch in the trim wasn't necessary, but it was the perfect size, color, and style -- plus, it was in my stash! I sewed the trim to one side of the collar, then followed those stitching lines when I sewed the collar pieces right-sides-together. The collar was incredibly simple, both to draft and to incorporate. I simply sewed it to the bodice pieces before attaching the bodice to the bodice lining. I was surprised just how well it draped.

I used a Kam snap for the closure in the back, but hid it inside the button tab so that all you see is a bird (not that you really see that, because it's under the collar!

I added a little contrast trim at the waist (a folded piece of the gingham, cut on the bias), and exchanged gathers for pleats in the skirt -- which I lengthened considerably and also widened by about three or four inches. I knew this would be a longer dress so that it will last Rosa a long time, so I though some extra wiggle room would help!

As a last nod to Boden, I added a simple robin applique with a pale pink jersey and a bit more of my grey gingham. Wonder-Under for the appliques and an iron-on tear-away backing made quick work of that step. My recent practice made this process much easier this go around! I hand embroidered a few details and machine zig-zagged the legs. I was worried I might be gilding the lily with the applique (the print is so busy already!), but I really like the result. It's subtle, but such a sweet detail.

It was a bit of a jolt cutting this pattern out -- I'm using the size 5 now, the biggest size in the first of the two Izzy patterns. Rosa is still in the first "half" of 4, but she's a little larger than average and I wanted this dress to last (and it's a bit large on her, so it should!). Even though I used a knit, I treated it like a woven. Well, I did use a slight zig-zag on the seams because they'll hold up better that way, but in every way I treated this as a "normal" dress -- lined bodice, back closure, etc. It was a bit of a gamble, especially since I'm more used to cotton spandex than I am to interlock. However, the results exceeded my expectations! The fabric was a bear to cut out because the birds are in "stripes" but the fabric was not perfectly in grain. I also nearly stymied myself by cutting out the skirt first and having to fudge a bit when cutting out the bodice, but as the dress came together, my fears and frustrations dwindled.

I sewed up a quick pair of leggings in the grey gingham, drafted from a pair that currently fits Rosa (again, the same as the pair for the Climbing Roses dress). Not an ideal fabric choice, because the gingham jersey has almost no stretch! But trimmed with some of the same white trim I used on the collar, they're just right (and they do fit, happily). Plus, with her current track record, the lack of stretch won't matter for long because they'll have holes in the knees in no time...

I'm not always in the mood to go the "extra mile" with details and finishes when sewing (especially children's clothing that will be worn out or outgrown relatively quickly!), but sometimes it's nice to slow down a bit. And in this case, I ended up with one of my favorite projects to date! I just wish all of my impulses had endings this happy... *wink*

Climbing Roses

I must confess a recent spontaneous purchase at JoAnn's -- But considering the results, I can't say that I'm feeling much remorse! And I used up an entire piece of fabric from my stash on both this and another soon-to-be-blogged "Boden-ish" dress, so I may actually be feeling a bit smug. No fabric is going into the stash, and some actually came out. Two steps back, three steps forward, right? Or am I just trying to justify myself...

I drafted a pattern for this based on one of Rosa's existing shirts -- first translating it to a tee, and then to a raglan tee (there are many tutorials for this, but I'm pretty sure I used It's Always Autumn's version!). I've actually made two nightgowns for Rosa using this pattern -- perfect way to "stashbust" knit fabric -- so I was already sure that it would fit.

I did add a scalloped Peter pan collar this time. And I totally cheated by leaving the binding exposed, but I thought it worked with the somewhat casual feel of the dress.

A simple pocket for the front:

The gingham fabric doesn't have much stretch, and I didn't want to worry about the neckline being big enough to slip over Rosa's head -- so I opted for a little keyhole opening in the back with a simple ribbon tie:

Of course, matching leggings are a must! I cut out this dress at the same time that I made the afore-mentioned "Boden-ish dress," so I could be sure I'd be able to fit all of the pieces. The leggings are the same pattern, so it was super simple!

I really like the gingham with the floral print -- and while I'd purchased extra of that gingham knit specifically for another Izzy once Rosa grew out of hers, I'm glad I was able to change things up a bit!

Of course, I realized after I bought my fabrics that Rosa has quite a full summer wardrobe -- oops! But there's always room for a good play dress, right? Now, back to the stash! *wink*

This Little Pinny

When I saw the adorable Ayla Toddler Pinafore Dress by Blythe and Reese, I was charmed! So charmed, in fact, that I shortly set out to make one for Rosa.  After rummaging in my stash, I came up with the perfect fabric candidate -- a thrifted linen skirt in navy blue. I had just enough to eke out this little pinny:

With such a blank canvas, a little embellishment was the order of the day. In this case, a little bird in scrap cotton and linen (both left over from this Izzy -- and I lined the bib/straps with the polka dot cotton, too) :

I decided to make a few changes to the overall design -- I made the pinafore "bib" taper at the bottom, because I thought it was more suited to a small child. Also, I put all of the buttons that secure the bib to the skirt on the inside (the buttons are on the skirt, with corresponding buttonholes on the bib/straps). Oh, and this makes the bib reversible! If I make more using the same pattern, they could even be interchangeable.

This was a simple project to draft -- rectangles for the skirt, rectangles for the straps, and an (almost) rectangle for the bib! There was a bit of pondering to do to figure out the construction, but this was a relatively quick and gratifying sew. 

Most importantly, Rosa loves it (the bird was a big hit!) and generally wants to wear it as soon as it's clean again. And that's good enough for me!

A New Spin on an Old Friend

I've had this idea in my head for ages now -- solid bodice, striped skirt, and an itty bitty pocket. I just don't know why it took me so long to work out the details! Of course, I used Teri's fabulous Izzy pattern as a base. Because why not? 

The materials were free -- black knit for the bodice, leftover from a maxi skirt I just made; black stripe knit for the skirt, from a sundress that my mom passed on for just-such-a-purpose; "chambray" for the pockets and tabs, from the reverse side of scraps from my Without A(nthro)pologie skirt. I also used three "bronze" KAM snaps, so technically those weren't free. But I'd already purchased them for another project, so they're sort of in that "already-paid-for-so-kind-of-free" stash stage.

The changes were relatively simple -- I used the Izzy bodice in a size 4T, but eliminated the curves at the bottom of the bodice pieces (this made the bodice longer at the center front). I actually think the curved bodice is one of the best things about the Izzy, but for this project I was looking for something a little different. I redrafted the skirt entirely, giving it a flared shape:

Above is a rough sketch of the shape I used, for a size 4T.

            A: Desired length of skirt at center front (mine was 14.5")
            B: Half of the Izzy bodice measurement (~5.5")

            C: Desired length of skirt at side seams (mine was 12.5")

The bottom curve was "eyed," and I added 1/2" to each edge except 
the center fold for seam/hem allowance. Just make sure you have 90
degree angles at each corner. Oh, and you could make C the same as
A -- I was limited by the size of the fabric I was working with!

Two chambray button tabs (well, snap tabs) on the back:

I love the flare on this skirt! I was a bit nervous how it would look in stripes, but I'm liking the result. And I'm quite pleased to announce that my stripes matched right up on the first try -- which is good, because it's unlikely I'd have had the patience to re-sew those seams! *wink*

Rosa loves her new dress, and she and Little Man even got to "help" put on the snaps (i.e., it took me twice as long, but we all had fun!). More fabric out of the stash, another frock in the closet, and a long-considered idea finally accomplished. Time to move on to the next project!

Return of the Izzy (and me!)

Well, I suppose it's 2016 now, isn't it? Not quite sure how that happened! We took an extended trip to Florida over Christmas and New Year's, and it was a lovely time to reconnect with family and friends! One odd experience was to drive by our previous home -- we're now renting it out, so we wanted to "check up" on how it's being maintained, but goodness! How strange to drive by and realize that we're not living there now!

Speaking of home, I still haven't gotten around to sharing some bits of our new home with you. All in good time! For now, I have a new Izzy to share with you!

I used Girl Charlee's Paloma Grey Grey Gingham cotton jersey knit, which was quite nice to work with (and also on grain, so no frantic hair-pulling sessions required!). Self-lined, gathered skirt, size 4 for my three-year-old -- but she's in a 4T in most off-the-rack clothes, too, so I'd say this is sized accurately. Oh, and I always make the same size in knit that I would in woven with this pattern; with the lined bodice, it's always been stable enough. Plus, I like a little room to grow! It's crazy to think that the very first Izzy I made was size 18 months! Rosa wore it until she was almost 3, I think. By then it was just a shirt! 

I lengthened the skirt by several inches, to make it dress length, but other than that I kept it simple! I love the grey gingham, as it's muted and goes so well with little cardigans and leggings. Not a showstopper, more of a background piece.

A silver KAM snap on the back keeps everything in place (why yes, I did notice that the fabric pattern on my tab doesn't match the back bodice... but please note that the pattern matches across the back! *wink*). I always feel like I'm cheating when I use these snaps, but they are so simple to apply and make dressing little Rosa a breeze! For fancy dresses, I'm all about buttons. But on a play dress? Snaps will do quite nicely, thank you. I suppose I could disguise that it's a snap by inserting the snap inside the tab, then sewing a button to the outside. But let's just say I'm keepin' it real.

I kind of wish this was 100% cotton instead of a cotton/poly blend, but I must admit that the fabric has a nice hand. I got two yards, actually, because I know I'll want to make one in the next size up when the time comes!

And believe it or not, I have two more Izzies to share you -- one finished just today! Now that I'm home, I've been on a bit of a sewing binge, and I'm hoping to keep up that momentum until my fabric stash has dwindled significantly.

See my other Izzies here.

Find Teri's (wonderful!) free Izzy top pattern here.

Summer Frocks

Too much fabric?

Check.

A little girl who needs some summer clothes?

Check.

An excuse to sew?

Yes, please!

Admittedly, Rosa wasn't in desperate need of new clothes. But a new tunic and blouse have been quite handy! The former was made up as an Izzy -- of course. I do love that pattern, you know.

I lined it with pink striped cotton, because I didn't have enough of the floral fabric. I'm actually glad it turned out that way, because I love the contrast.

And a snap in the back to close it up -- partly because I was too lazy to do a buttonhole. Though by the time I'd gathered up all the snap supplies, a hammer, and my scrap 2x4 (for setting the snap), I probably could have made several buttonholes!

The other top is perfect for summer. I purchased the fabric before Rosa was born, I believe, and originally intended it for an entirely different garment. But it was time for it to be used, and an airy little peasant top seemed perfect. Actually, it started out as a dress -- but you know when you make something and you realize the fabric isn't right? Fortunately, shortening it was solution, and here it is!

A little checkered ribbon at the neckline, and it was all set. Oh, I used this peasant dress pattern, though I seem to recall altering the flutter sleeves to make them a little wider. 

Both of these were made assembly-line style, because I actually made a second set in a smaller size as a gift. Hopefully the little one they were made for will like hers as much as Rosa does! In fact, the cherry top was specifically requested this morning.

Fabric used up, sewing itch scratched, and a daughter who loves to wear something I made for her. I can go with that.

Dot to Dot (Or, "Yet Another Izzy")

This is, by my count, my sixth incarnation of the fabulous Izzy pattern (you can see the others here)! If you've been here even a short time, you've probably already noticed my fascination obsession with this pattern. This is a fever that not even more cowbell can cure! But that's okay. This is one addiction I'm more than happy to feed. 

I made up a 3T for my 2 1/2 year old, and it's great now with room to grow. Hopefully this Izzy will have a long life as a dress and then as a tunic!

I paired grey polka-dot cotton with a remnant of linen in "Meadow" that I'd purchased for next-to-nothing some time ago. I love the color combination (though it's super difficult to get the colors right on a computer monitor!).

This time I notched the collar for a little detail -- I also lined the bodice with the cotton, and I like the look of it peeking out when it's on the hanger! 

Pockets, too -- just because. They were simple to draft, and help bring the whole thing together.

I added a band of linen to the bottom (double the desired width + seam allowance, folded in half and stitched right-side-together to the skirt). Though I did end up shortening the dress by several inches after taking these photos; despite my efforts, it ended up far too long for Rosa! 

A vintage mother-of-pearl button secures the back.

This was my first sewing project since arriving in Virginia -- I cut it out before bed and stitched it the next day. Just in time for a trip to IKEA the day after! It was a long trek, but well worth it -- oh Poang, how we love your comfortable curves! *wink*

It's been a flurry of activity here, but I hope to post a bit more regularly soon. Right now we're in the aftermath of a washer that flooded our utility room and part of the kitchen, so we'd appreciate prayers for a swift (and relatively inexpensive) resolution to that problem. In the meantime, I hope you're enjoying Spring wherever-you-are as much as we are!

UnStashed

The past two weeks were a bit of a "forced" interlude from full-on packing, while Pablo was away for some military training. I took advantage of this time to finish up as much sewing as possible before both a newborn and a 1000+ mile move took over my life! My specific goals were to finish all of the baby's accessories, make our 2nd set of linen sheets (I've had yards of linen cluttering up my sewing room for months!), and de-stashing a bit while simultaneously filling out Rosa's summer wardrobe.

One de-stash project was a $1 navy linen Talbot's dress that I found at my favorite local charity shop. It's now a much, much smaller dress:

You probably recognize the oft-repeated, much-loved Izzy top by Teri at Climbing the Willow (you can see my others here). I love that this pattern can be made as a tunic or a dress -- or can turn into a tunic after a growth spurt! -- and can transition from warm to cool weather with the addition of a cardigan. 

This time I added a little ruffled "placket" to the front. And finally, finally, I got to use some of the buttons I've been hoarding for quite a while! I purchased a garment at the charity shop -- I don't even remember what it looked like, now -- just for three buttons fashioned from the ends of spoons.

I used one of the buttons for the back closure, but I still have one more to use when I find another *just right* project.

So I suppose this counts as a double de-stash/upcycle, since both the fabric and buttons were thrifted items from my stash. I have a feeling I'll be glad to have some dresses ready for the Spring and Summer, since the new baby is likely to limit my sewing time -- a most welcome interruption!

And now, off to pack some more!

Izzy in Bloom

It may surprise you to know that Rosa is actually in need of new clothes. I know, even I was somewhat shocked by that revelation! But little ones grow, clothes wear out, and that means that I have to sew. sigh. Such a sacrifice...

I turned to the Izzy top once again, and that probably won't be a surprise. This is my fourth rendition (One, Two, and Three) in less than six months, and I just keep loving this pattern more and more. Teri, you designed one amazing pattern! Oh, and on the subject of "Izzies," you should go see this beautiful version by "Beloved" -- it's so lovely and well made that it's hard to believe it's her first sewing project! 

And now to the Izzy in hand...

Simply made, in a green floral cotton with natural muslin from the stash. In other words, inexpensive! 

I decided to add a band at the bottom to make it into a dress, which Rosa can also wear next spring/summer with a pair of leggings. The sizing is so flexible with this pattern, because it's roomy in the bodice and transitions well from dress to tunic. 

A covered button, also from the stash, for the back closure. The Izzy is so easy to get on and off, and the single button does its job well while being simple and decorative. One buttonhole? I can do that!

It's super simple to add a contrasting band to the Izzy, because the skirt piece is straight along the bottom. Adding a band to a curved hemline can be tricky, but this is a simple matter of cutting a rectangle twice as wide as you want the band to be, plus seam allowance. I sewed it right sides together to the skirt, then folded it under and topstitched. It's a clean, easy finish, and it seemed like the perfect way to balance the dress with the contrasting bodice and skirt.

Oh, and I made the 2T for my almost-two-year-old. Plenty of room to grow, but it fits perfectly now.

It may seem late in the year for such a summery dress, but the hot weather is here to stay for at least a few more months. We're "braving" it as best we can by staying inside all day like cowards...